paul
6 posts
Joined: 24/02/2005 21:50:31
Location: United Kingdom (Excluding channel Islands)
Clutch return spring
Do all classic minis have clutch return springs fitted
Posted: Feb 25, 2005 07:27 PM
Ian
23 posts
Joined: 09/10/2004 19:07:16
Location: Newport, United Kingdom (Excluding channel Islands)
Clutch Springs
If you mean the one on the clutch operating lever, then Yes!!!
Posted: Feb 25, 2005 08:33 PM
Jake Holmes
172 posts
Joined: 14/02/2009 21:39:11
Location: Walton on Thames United Kingdom (Excluding channel Islands)
Clutch slave return spring
I noticed my pre verto clutch is not fitted with a return spring from the clutch arm to the slave cylinder. The clutch functioned ok but when i purchased the spring from minispares and installed it the clutch felt incredibly heavy and sitting in traffic was impossible so i removed it. Is this spring essential and any ideas why this happens? Am i doing any damage by not having this fitted?
Thanks,
Jake
Posted: Aug 10, 2009 10:54 PM
Tim
1849 posts
Joined: 18/10/2004 09:40:59
Location: Bournemouth United Kingdom (Excluding channel Islands)
I think if you don't have that spring there is a danger if you pump the pedal several times in quick succession that you will over-pressurise the system. However, it shouldn't make the clutch feel heavy - is it the right one and do you have the right attachments at each end?
Posted: Aug 13, 2009 02:26 PM
I purchased the spring from minispares and attached it between the hole on the ond of the clutch arm and the notch on the slave cylinder.
Posted: Aug 13, 2009 04:13 PM
Did it feel excessively tight putting it on?
Posted: Aug 14, 2009 10:04 AM
Yes very, was quite a job getting it to fit. I'm obviously doing something wrong.
Posted: Aug 14, 2009 11:25 AM
I'm not sure what you mean by the notch on the slave cylinder. On mine there is a little tag on the bleed nipple on the slave cylinder, and the spring hooks over that. There is a similar, but larger, tag on the end of the clutch arm. See items 47 and 48 in this catalogue:
http://www.somerford-mini.co.uk/pdfs/Catalogues/Transmissions/03-ManualGearbox-Flywheel-Housing-Clutch-Cover.pdf
Posted: Aug 14, 2009 01:10 PM
I apparently don't have the tag that goes on the bleed nipple so have probably been over tensioning the spring.
Posted: Aug 17, 2009 08:58 PM
Kevski style
105 posts
Joined: 12/09/2004 17:59:09
Location: Netherlands
Stronger clutch?
I hope some people can help me out here. First of all I have a 998cc A+ verto type clutch, and want to keep it. furthermore Ive opted for an solid clutchplate without the springs on it by AP Racing, witch will be installed in the near future. The fact is my clutch is slipping as my engine has to much torque, So the solid plate wont solve this problem. I know the MG metro Turbo pressure plate is the strongest there is for an A+ clutch assembly. But I beleave it is the same clutch assembly apart form a higher tension spring, am I right? So now my question: Is there a way to just swap the spring? And If so, where could I get this spring????
Posted: Oct 05, 2005 06:50 PM
HELP clutch does not always fully dis-engage
IS there any pattern to this? Have you got a clutch return spring fitted?
Posted: Aug 27, 2009 02:43 PM
Alex
129 posts
Joined: 20/10/2004 23:06:00
Location: York United Kingdom (Excluding channel Islands)
Clutch
Well If the clutch piston is moving and u still cant get a gear it sounds like you r plates are warn - Try starting it in gear and if u floor it then it will fire and set off - if it moves and u cant here it over reving then i must be sommat else. Could also be the spring plate has failed so u cant disengage the clutch- I suggest Taking teh clutch housing of and renewing everything plates, springs, thrust bearsing the works
Posted: Jul 02, 2005 06:48 PM
?
Thats what I am going to do. I have a 998 thats currntly producing 101Newton meter (Holland, so metric), but I feel like the clutch should be stronger. At least the pickup with this plate should be a lot better, but there is still the fact of the clutch itself. 998 have the weakest spring tension I beleave. Next comes the 1275 clutch and lastly the MG Metro Turbo clutch. So the question is: Do I need a stronger one?
Posted: Oct 13, 2005 03:16 PM
Clutch 101
I think it's actually the springs in the clutch itself that push the slave cylinder back up it's bore.
If this isn't happening (or it's happening very slowly) and assuming it's not the clutch springs that are broken, it's probably that the mechanism is stiff/rusty through lack of use, in which case soak with penetrating oil for a bit and then grease all moving parts.
Posted: Jan 03, 2008 09:30 AM
Brake pedal sticking
There is a large spring that wraps round the pivot of both the clutch and brake pedals. It is right at the top of the pedals and very difficult to see without lying on the drivers floor, underneath the dashboard.
There is a very clear diagram in the Haynes manual in Chapter 5 - Clutch. You say yours is an auto, so you won't have a clutch pedal, but the spring arrangement must still be there on the brake pedal.
If you haven't seen it, then you probably haven't been lubricating the right area!
Posted: Aug 28, 2008 08:25 PM
That should be 160NM for your car calculated in metric sizes. Or 73Lbf If you would calculate mine back to imperial sizes. Problem is its at 1723RPM. Clutch feels like its slipping from standstil to drive and from 1 to second gear. Its probably those spring on the clutchplate itself wich are causing it, but I like to know for certain. Another question: Am I wright in thinking that there are 3 types of clutches availible voor the verto? Ok, there are 4, but without the 190mm MPI????
Posted: Oct 13, 2005 03:31 PM
John
163 posts
Joined: 09/09/2004 09:32:06
Location: DK-2000 Frederiksberg Denmark
Drive strap?
I take it youve got a pre-verto clutch. Did you align the drive straps properly when you had the backplate, disk and flywheel on the bench? Also, check the return stop screw adjustment - remove the spring from the slave cylinder, ask dad to push the pedal about an inch or so until the slack is taken out of the system. Now you turn the 7/16 screw until it just contacts the arm and back in 1 flat. Nip up the locknut, replace the spring and you should be OK on this adjustment.
Posted: Mar 06, 2005 12:11 AM
Minimalist
2 posts
Joined: 01/11/2004 14:08:19
Location: Telford United Kingdom (Excluding channel Islands)
Clutch problem
Thanks for the advice, I think I may just have to bite the bullet and take it to a specialist. Or replace the entire clutch. I have read that this problem may be related to the diaphragm springs............??? Matt
Posted: Mar 08, 2005 01:42 PM
pickme
672 posts
Joined: 08/09/2004 23:10:14
Location: Chippenham United Kingdom (Excluding channel Islands)
Clutch Problem
Clutch spring probs sounds about right. I had my problem after removing a rally clutch and replacing it with a normal road one. Most likely, something got stretched or crushed by the rally clutch plate. As a word of warning to those looking at racy sounding rally (orange) and more so grey and double grey clutch plates. USE WITH CAUTION! They are a sod to drive with in traffic, and more importantly knacker your crank because it pulls so hard on the end, it busts all the seals and bearings in the process. Not something the normal user wants to change twice a year. The clutch is a nice place to have your weakest link ( as long as it doesnt slip too much) rather replace your clutch plate every couple of years, than you drive shafts/gear box/wheels/tyres/hubs etc every couple of months.
Posted: Mar 08, 2005 09:20 PM
stuart1
12 posts
Joined: 20/09/2004 12:04:51
Location: Cala vinyes calvia Spain
s
check the oil pump as this is driven from the camshaft which turn at half engine speed(maybe the vane which goes round is touching the body) also check that the oil presure relief valve ( between dizzy and clutch cover) is working .(its behind the large domed nut) inside is a spring and ballbearing make sure that they can move ok stuart
Posted: Jan 20, 2005 06:40 PM